The Four Palaces of Isfahan: The Lost Legacies of the Safavid Era

Isfahan, once the glittering capital of the Safavid Empire, boasts an architectural legacy that continues to captivate. However, a dark chapter in its history saw the tragic loss of many magnificent structures, particularly during the 34-year rule of Mas'oud Mirza Zell-e Sultan, son of Naser al-Din Shah Qajar. His governorship led to the destruction of over 50 historical buildings and Iranian gardens. At its zenith, Isfahan was home to 137 palaces, 162 mosques, 48 madrasas, 273 public baths, and 12 cemeteries. A significant number of these irreplaceable treasures were lost during Zell-e Sultan's reign. Let's delve into four of Isfahan's palaces that met an unfortunate end during this period.

1. Haft Dast Palace and Ayineh Khaneh Pavilion: A Glimpse of Lost Grandeur

The Haft Dast Palace and Ayineh Khaneh Pavilion were arguably the most exquisite palaces in Isfahan during their time. These historical edifices were integral to the vast Sa'adat Abad Garden. Adjacent to them stood the Namakdan Mansion. This grand Safavid-era complex, commissioned by Shah Abbas II, was nestled on the southern bank of the Zayandeh Rud, between the Khaju Bridge and the Jubi Bridge, which effectively served as its private crossing.

The Ayineh Khaneh Palace, as depicted in historical photographs by figures like Ernst Hoeltzer, featured a grand iwan and a pool reminiscent of Chehel Sotoun, spanning an impressive 50,000 square meters. Its main hall soared to a height of 41 meters, supported by 16 columns in the iwan, just 62 meters from the Zayandeh Rud. A defining feature of this palace was its colossal mirrors, some exceeding 2.5 meters in height, transforming the interior into a dazzling realm of reflection and entertainment.

According to Mohammad Mahdi Isfahani's "Nisf-e Jahan fi Ta'rif al-Isfahan," "Haft Dast" originally referred to a complex of seven palaces, with only one remaining at the time of his writing. The text vividly describes over 20,000 zar' of land (a traditional unit of measurement) covered by these structures, surrounded by hundreds of interconnected rooms adorned with intricate stucco, gold leaf, and masterful enameling – truly a sight to behold. The complex even boasted separate bathhouses for men and women, with floors and wainscoting crafted from lustrous marble. Pools of marble and porphyry, along with Shah Abbas II's throne, captivated visitors for hours.

The magnificent throne of Shah Abbas II, situated within this palace, rested upon a vast, polished marble slab that gleamed like a mirror. Measuring seven meters long and over three meters wide, the natural patterns within the marble created a breathtaking visual effect.

Tragically, both the Ayineh Khaneh and Haft Dast Palaces were demolished in 1901 (1319 AH) under the direct orders of Zell-e Sultan, Isfahan's governor, appointed by Mozaffar al-Din Shah Qajar. Later, a portion of the palace grounds was incorporated into a new street, while a textile factory, "Vatan Textile," was constructed on another section. After the factory's closure, the area was redeveloped for residential use. Still, the names Ayineh Khaneh Park and Haft Dast Street endure as poignant reminders of what once stood.

2. Namakdan Mansion: A Vanished Jewel

The **Namakdan Mansion** was the second Isfahan palace to be destroyed by Zell-e Sultan's decree. This three-story edifice stood approximately 150 meters from the Ayineh Khaneh Palace, situated towards the south of Sa'adat Abad Garden. Given the Ayineh Khaneh's proximity to the Zayandeh Rud (only 63 meters), the Namakdan Mansion was no more than 230 meters from the river. The origin of its intriguing name remains uncertain. Some theories suggest it was due to the building's distinctive geometric shape, while others recount a tale of Shah Abbas sharing "nan-o-namak" (bread and salt, a symbol of peace) with an enemy within its walls.

The Namakdan Mansion was a towering octagonal structure, offering expansive views of various parts of the city. From the north, it overlooked the Zayandeh Rud; to the south, it gazed upon Soffeh Mountain and its surrounding gardens; and to the east and west, the vast Sa'adat Abad Garden stretched into view. The French traveler Jean Chardin eloquently described its beauty: "...Among the buildings in this garden (Sa'adat Abad) is an octagonal, two-story belvedere, from whose surrounding terrace water cascades down, such that if one extends a hand from the window, it instantly fills with water."

In 1888 (1306 AH), at the height of Zell-e Sultan's destructive period, this beautiful Isfahan palace met its fate. It's believed that Zell-e Sultan ceded the Namakdan Palace and its surrounding lands, then considered state property, to one of his agents, Banan al-Molk, with the explicit condition that it be demolished. Today, not even a trace of its ruins remains; the site has been transformed into streets, parks, and residential and administrative buildings. However, local lore suggests that the robust foundations of this palace and other Sa'adat Abad structures still lie buried beneath Ayineh Khaneh Boulevard.

3. Farahabad Palace and Hezar Jarib Garden: A Grand Loss

The **Hezar Jarib Garden** was among Isfahan's most magnificent gardens and palaces. Located in southern Isfahan, at the foot of Soffeh Mountain and at the end of Chahar Bagh Street, its immense size—reportedly a thousand by a thousand 'zar'—gave it its name. During the reign of Shah Abbas Safavi, Chahar Bagh Street extended from the Jahan Nama Mansion in the north to the Hezar Jarib Garden in the south. The beautiful **Farahabad Palace** was nestled within this sprawling garden. Like many other beautiful gardens and structures in Isfahan, this garden and its splendid palace were tragically destroyed by Zell-e Sultan during the Qajar era, leaving no trace behind.

The French traveler Chardin described Hezar Jarib Garden as follows:

"This garden has twelve flat terraces, traversed by twelve transversal avenues parallel to the garden, and three longitudinal avenues that pass under brick ceilings and emerge on the other side of the garden. Between each terrace, where a gentle waterfall descends, there are pools of various geometric shapes, including circles, rectangles, and octagons. Brick buildings stand on both sides of each pool, and on the sixth terrace, a large, three-story belvedere of considerable size was built. A mansion was constructed at the beginning and another at the end of the garden, identical in every respect. The central avenue, aligned with Chahar Bagh, was harmonious with it, featuring plane trees on both sides and a flowing stream in the middle. Dovecotes were built on all four sides of the garden walls, serving both to collect pigeon droppings for cultivating summer crops and to impart grandeur and splendor to the external appearance of the tower-like structures. The numerous fountains scattered throughout the garden numbered five hundred, truly beautiful and delightful in their place."

4. Chahar Bagh Palace: A Survivor's Tale

Unlike the previously mentioned palaces, the **Chahar Bagh Palace**, also known as the **Sarpusheedeh Palace** or **Rakibkhaneh Mansion**, is an Isfahan palace that partially survives today. This palace was constructed at the beginning of the 11th Hijri century with the ascent of Shah Abbas I to the throne. During the Qajar period, it underwent significant alterations and subsequently served as the residence of Isfahan's governor, including Zell-e Sultan for a period. In the Pahlavi era, Chahar Bagh Palace initially housed the Governor of Isfahan, and later the Isfahan Civil Registry Office. Today, this historically significant building is home to the **Isfahan Museum of Contemporary Arts**.

Chahar Bagh Palace is centrally located in Isfahan, adjacent to invaluable structures such as Chehel Sotoun Palace, Ali Qapu, Ashraf Hall, and Tohid Khaneh. This building is part of Isfahan's old urban fabric and the Safavid governmental complex, dating back to the early 11th Hijri century, concurrent with the beginning of Shah Abbas I's reign. The name "Rakibkhaneh" (literally "stirrup house") was attributed to this mansion because it served as a repository for state equestrian equipment and harnesses.

After the Safavid era, the Rakibkhaneh building fell into disuse. However, during the Qajar period, it was revitalized under the benevolent vizier Mohammad Hossein Khan Sadr Isfahani, an enlightened prime minister to Fath-Ali Shah. It was then renamed "Chahar Bagh Palace" or "Sarpusheedeh Palace" and became the official residence of Isfahan's governor. During Zell-e Sultan's governorship, further alterations and additions were made to the palace. Today, visitors can explore the Rakibkhaneh Museum, witnessing its preserved sections.

In the following, you can see current images of the Rakibkhaneh Museum.

Destroyed Buildings of Isfahan

A list of some Safavid-era structures destroyed by Zell-e Sultan includes:

• Sa'adat Abad Garden and Palace
• Haft Dast Mansion
• Namakdan Palace
• Ayineh Khaneh
• Behesht-e Barin (Supreme Paradise)
• Behesht-e Ayin (Paradise of Mirrors)
• Angurestan (Grape Garden)
• Badamestan (Almond Garden)
• Narenjestan (Orange Garden)
• Kolah Farangi (Belvedere)
• Bagh-e Takht (Throne Garden)
• Bagh-e Albaloo (Cherry Garden)
• Bagh-e Tavoos (Peacock Garden)
• Naqsh-e Jahan Mansion and Garden
• Bagh-e Fath Abad (Fath Abad Garden)
• Guldasteh (Minaret)
• Talar-e Ashraf (Ashraf Hall)
• Emārat-e Khorshid (Sun Mansion)
• Sarpusheedeh (Covered Hall)
• Emārat-e Khosrokhani
• Bagh-e Zereshk (Barberry Garden)
• Bagh-e Charkhab
• Bagh-e Mahmoud
• Bagh-e Safi Mirza
• Bagh-e Qushkhaneh
• Bagh-e Nazar
• Hezar Jarib Mansion and Gateway
• Jahan Nama Mansion

In addition to these, Zell-e Sultan demolished approximately forty other Safavid-era gardens and mansions, each considered a masterpiece of Safavid architecture in its own right. His destructive behavior in Isfahan wasn't limited to demolition. He also removed the mirrorwork from the columns of Ali Qapu and Chehel Sotoun, and ordered the exquisite paintings inside Chehel Sotoun to be covered with plaster, allowing lesser Qajar painters to create their own works over them. Descriptions of some of these demolished mansions, by order of Zell-e Sultan, are found in various travelogues, particularly those of Orientalists and Europeans who visited Isfahan during the Safavid era.

Sarhang Palace: A Lasting Safavid Legacy

The **Sarhang Palace** in Isfahan stands as a cherished reminder of the Safavid era. This building, throughout the Safavid, Zand, and Qajar periods, served as one of Isfahan's grand residential complexes, home to the influential Haj Rasooli family. The intricate decorations and craftsmanship within this structure showcase the refined taste and artistic flair of its owners across different historical periods. This national treasure, now operating as the **Sarhang Palace Hotel Museum**, warmly welcomes enthusiasts of Iran's rich culture, history, and art.